KUTNA HORA

Tuesday 13^th

After a battle with the barrier and paying at reception, we finally got under way by 10.30 am. A drive all along the side of the river in to the Czech Republic, stopping at a roadside stall to buy a ‘vignette’ for 10 days so that we could drive on the toll roads, we came to Decin (or Tsetchen) and lo and behold a Tesco Hypermarket. Of course we had to stop to do some shopping, quite hysterical really as we hadn’t got a clue as to what we were buying other than Finest marmalade…we could recognise that one. Then over to the petrol station to tank up and we were on our way to Velemin where the book told us there was a stellplatz at a caravan dealers. Silly Emily had given up at this point, she thought we were still in Germany and the fairly new motorway didn’t even show up, so it was on a wing and a prayer and trying to decipher road signs that we made it. Not brilliant, but it is free so will do for one night. We went in to have a look round their shop and treated ourselves to a fluffy fly screen for the door at half the price back home. Then for a stroll down in to the village to see what we could find, not a lot, everywhere is very run down and derelict looking. So back for dinner and an early night.

Wednesday 14^th

We left around 9.30 and set off to tackle Prague and the motorways. We got it hopelessly wrong around Prague, Emily was no use at all. Finally got on the right road, albeit a minor one, to Kutna Hora. Emily was trying her hardest to take us to Camping Santa Barbara, but the road we needed to turn off at was closed for roadworks. After stopping at the side of a small road and turning on my phone we set off for our alternative site Autocamp Transit, which did eventually take us there. It turned out that one of the major routes is closed and everything is having to make a detour right around the town….we had driven about 90 miles altogether. Luckily this is a beautiful little site, right in someone’s back garden with trees, a pond with a little bridge over, a swimming pool, recreation room, barbecue area and some chalets as well, all for £12 per night.

We chilled out for the rest of the day, chatted to a Belgian lass who was cycling to Vietnam and then wandered off to locate the nearest bus stop and the track through the bushes alongside the bridge works across the railway line to be able to walk down in to the town tomorrow.

Thursday 15^th

Probably the most interesting day so far. After doing a bit of washing and hanging it out on the line provided, we headed off down the track, across the railway and then a 15 minute walk down the main road to the area known as Sedlec.

 

We had read about the Ossuary (charnel house) underground of the chapel and it was definitely worth the visit.  We have never seen anything like it, the whole place had been decorated using all the old bones that had been buried there by monks in the 1200 and 1300’s. Strung from the roof, adorning pillars, even what looked like tombs all covered in bones. Apparently about 40,000 people had been buried there over the years, so quite a lot of bones. 

Once out in the sunlight we went over to the Cathedral, which had been restored and hung with many paintings that had been cleaned and restored. 

Back outside we found a small supermarket, behind a dark brown wooden door, so popped in to see what we could find to eat. We would never have guessed it was the supermarket except that we saw a lady come out with armfuls of fruit and veg. Some Tuc biscuits and bottled water was sufficient especially once we had found a bench in the shade. Later we wandered some more and found a larger supermarket on the way to the bus stop where we picked up some ham for tonight’s dinner. We had to wait about half and hour for a bus, first we were on the wrong side of the road, then put right when a bus came along. 24 korunas (about 40p) got both of us on the bus for 20 minutes, round the long way back to near the camp site. We were hot and exhausted and not fit for much other than a cold drink and a shower. Tonight it is like the league of nations, 1 English van, 1 Belgian, 1 Danish lady, 1 German and 2 Dutch vans are on the site, but the Belgian lass has gone off to cycle her next 80kms to Brno.

Friday 16^th

We did not get much sleep last night, it rained, fundered and frightened on and off all night, and the chairs we had left out got saturated. Still quite cloudy and a bit cooler this morning. We both cried off tackling the bus times and round about journey in to the main part of town, as we had seen enough of it yesterday. Everywhere is very tired-looking, pavements broken and uneven, road works on virtually every corner, so we are a little bit disappointed with it all. We had already decided to give Prague a miss with the motorhome, particularly as we are not allowed in to the low-emission zone so would have to find a campsite on the outskirts and then public transport in. Their road signs are a nightmare, when there are any and the drivers are maniacs, does not make for comfortable travelling at all. After lunch we went for a wander up to the village with the intention of getting an ice-cream from the kiosk we saw the other day, but it was all shut up. Alongside was a brown door with people going in and out, what was it we thought? 

Nosey parkers that we are we went inside to investigate and it turned out to be a little shop, just like our corner Spar at home. We bought a bottle of wine for £2.90 as well as a loaf and some tomatoes and crackers, all for under £5.00. Just got out the door when the heavens opened again, luckily there were a couple of big umbrellas for folk to sit under with their beers, so we joined the workmen there for about 20 minutes before heading back to the campsite. Needless to say we were very damp and in need of a cuppa by the time we made it.